How to fix bald spots - in your lawn

Q: Here's a problem: I've got bald spots. Not on my head though, the bald spots on my lawn! How do I get rid of them? Also, there are patches of yellowed grass in places. What's the solution for that? -- Joey in Tennessee

A: Right now is a good time to solve the "bald spot" problem (rather, bare patches on your lawn). If you know what type of grass your lawn is, head for the homeimprovement store and pick up a bag of the same grass seed. If you're not sure what type, look for an all-purpose grass seed or seed mix. Pick up a little straw there, too, if you don't have any extra at home.

On a day that's not too windy, seed the bare patches as follows:

Clear away dead grass, stones, sticks and leaves from the bare spots.

Use a thatch rake or a pitchfork to puncture and loosen the soil, then level out the soil (you may need to add some dirt to level it).

Spread the grass seed over each bare patch as the package directs. Cover the area well, but don't overdo it, as too much can lead to rotting.

Water the area slightly and lightly tamp the seeds down, then scatter straw over the bare patch.

Keep the soil damp over the next couple of weeks and wave away birds that will try to eat the seed.

Yellow spots are generally seen in areas of the lawn that have too much nitrogen. What could possibly give one spot more nitrogen than another? One culprit: dog pee. If you want a nice green lawn, don't let the dog go wherever it wants -- walk Fido to a designated "go" spot away from the grass.

Another possibility, particularly in the Midwest and Mid-Atlantic, is a fungus called fusarium that flourishes in hot weather. To prevent fungus, don't overfertilize your lawn, and dethatch it every fall. If you suspect fungus, treat the spots with an appropriate fungicide (ask for it at garden centers).

HOME TIP: To keep birds away from freshly seeded areas, put wooden stakes or sticks around the boundary, run string from stake to stake, and tie strips of aluminum foil to the string. It's ugly, but it scares the birds.

Reusing Wood for

Flooring

Q: I've been watching some home-improvement shows on television lately that advocate "green" building techniques, including reusing wood from other structures for a home's wood flooring, rather than buying new. What do you think about this trend, and how do I go about doing this? -- Larry in Tempe, Ariz.

A: Recycled wood flooring is a good trend, in my opinion, because rather than chopping down live trees to supply the hardwood for your floor, wood from many types of disused structures or other sources of salvaged lumber can be remilled to give it a second life. There is some concern that the current stock of high-quality salvaged wood will run out eventually, but no timetable has been given for that.

Recycled hardwood is often of better quality than new hardwoods. It's been curing for many years, resulting in a tighter grain and more stability. Also, much of the current stock of recycled wood originally came from old-growth forests, most of which either no longer exist or are protected, and so you're getting high-quality denseness and stability that most new woods can't match.

One thing it is not, however, is cheap. Recycled hardwood costs much more than new (Toolbase Services estimates that it runs about $5.75 to $11 per square foot, while new oak flooring runs about $3 per square foot). Recycled wood also must be installed by a professional.

Despite the cost, recycled wood tends to be beautiful and durable and a nice conversation piece at parties. If you're interested in having it installed, many flooring contractors are able to procure and install recycled wood. You should check with more than one contractor, though, get estimates, and ideally work with someone who specializes in recycled wood-flooring installation.

HOME TIP: All types of wood floors need the same type of care: Wipe up liquid spills immediately, don't use harsh cleaners or oil soaps, and sweep, dust mop or vacuum regularly to prevent grit from dulling the finish.

How to Silence a

Squeaky Floor

Q: The hardwood floor in my loft apartment is beautiful. It's very old and has a rough look from generations of use, but the floorboards squeak loudly in several places. The landlord says the floors are as-is and won't repair them, but he did say I could try to fix the problem myself. How do I do that? -- Tony B., Boston

A: Squeaky floorboards are an annoying problem, and can be an expensive fix depending on the cause of the squeak. If the boards just squeak when stepped on and don't sag under your weight, the sound can be minimized without too much work.

Floorboards squeak because one board is rubbing against another. On a perfect floor, boards don't rub against one another because they lie flat against the subflooring and are placed firmly side by side. Over the years, however, heat, cold and damp, as well as everyday use, cause the boards to swell and contract, sag under heavy weight, and spring up away from the subfloor.

A quick fix, one that works on minor squeaks, is to squeeze graphite powder between the boards. (Some folks use talcum powder instead.) This lubricates the joints, and although the boards still rub against each other when you walk over them, the squeak will be minimized or disappear -- but only for as long as the lubricant stays in place.

Larger squeaks and sagging boards take a bit more work. If you have access to the subflooring (unlikely in an apartment building), stand beneath it as someone walks across the floor above and pinpoint the squeaky areas. Then, hammer shims (thin wedges of wood) between the joist nearest the squeak and the subflooring, and put wood screws up through the subfloor to the center of each board to reattach them to the subfloor.

Chances are you don't have access to the subfloor, so you'll have to work from the top. In this case, locate the squeaky spots and hammer finishing nails into the edges of the boards at several spots. Angle the nails slightly so they'll have less chance to work back out. You can also re-anchor the boards to the subfloor from this direction by placing either nails or screws along the center of each board. Drill a pilot hole first, and then either drive a nail or a screw into the board, sinking the head of the nail below the board surface. Fill the small hole that results with wood putty to hide the nail head.

If a floorboard squeaks and sags so much that you're afraid you'll fall through, it's time to re-engage the attention of the landlord. Check the lease laws in your state -- most lean in favor of the tenant. If the flooring problem is so severe that it impacts your ability to live comfortably in the apartment, the landlord has an obligation to fix it.

HOME TIP: Winter is the best time of the year to cut firewood. It's easier to cut in the cold weather, and by next fall the wood will be seasoned and ready for the fireplace.

Send questions or homerepair tips to homeguru2000@ hotmail.com, or write This Is a Hammer, c/o King Features Weekly Service, P.O. Box 536475, Orlando, FL 32853-6475.